It appeared that the wire sizes were too small for the loads. They had used 8 AWG wires to get the battery power to the fuse board. It was especially bad when I ran the water pump and the POS post got very hot. From my research on the web, this seems to be a fairly common problem and other people had serious charing in places near the converter. I also wanted to have a good 3 stage battery charger to take better care of my batteries. This led me to replace my Parallax 7355 converter/charger with the Ultra III 9800 series kit that included a new and better fuse board.
The converter had 6 AWG aluminum wires from the DC side for the fuse board. I really don't like aluminum wiring. It has much less conductivity than copper. That means more resistance which means heating. Since heat was the problem to begin with, I decided to replace those wires with copper. I wanted to use 4 AWG wires (largest size the lugs can use) but they are too fat to get thru the access holes so I got 6 AWG copper wires to replace the aluminum.
The fuse board can accommodate 4 AWG wires so I got that size to replace the battery POS and NEG wires along with connectors for the other end. I figured if I am going to fix this, I may as well get the fattest wire I can to reduce the resistance.
After the installation, I tested the board and even with the water pump running for quite awhile, there was no detectable heating of the lugs. So it appears that undersized wires were the root cause of my problems.
What I would do differently: waited to get the high strand count, flexible welding wires for everything. Anything else is too stiff and made handling the wiring much more difficult than it needed to be. The wires I used work fine, and everything is now staying cool.
===========
Here's the procedure I used to rewire and install my new Ultra III Converter and fuse board. See here for what I bought. This applies specifically to my LTV Free Spirit 210B van and replacing the wires with double the size.
Replace
Parallax 7355 Converter and Fuse Panel with Ultra III
WF9855
in 2005 LTV Free Spirit 210B Van
in 2005 LTV Free Spirit 210B Van
Replace
red and white wires on new converter with 6 AWG copper wires
comes
with 6AWG aluminum – replace with copper
Need
5/32” long hex driver Access holes are not big enuf for 4 AWG
wire
Measure
battery pos wire
Measure
battery neg wire
Cut 4
AWG wire to fit
Fit
lug on far end
treat
both wires with dielectric grease
Wrap
pos wire in red tape
Label
both ends of each wire
Converter
Battery NEG to Ground screw
Converter
Battery POS to Battery Switch
Switch
12V off on main panel
Switch
all AC breakers OFF
Unplug
shore power
Disconnect
NEG terminals on DS battery
Disconnect
POS cables on DS battery
Original AC Breaker Box |
Remove
old converter
Remove
converter unit cover
Remove
screws holding housing unit and slide the housing out of the hole
Remove
AC cover
Remove
the Fuse board
Remove
the fuses from the board including the 2 30 amp fuses
Unscrew
fuse board & pull out 2 screws above the fuses
Remove
the fuse wires
Make
labels for each fuse wire
Fuse board removed, fuse wires labeled |
AC Converter is pigtailed to outlet circuit |
Remove
F1 wire and put wire label on it
Repeat
for all 9 fuse wires
Remove
the Batt POS cable - red
Remove
the Batt NEG cable - black
Remove
the Conv POS cable - blue
Remove
the Conv NEG cable on back of board - white
Discard
the fuse board
Remove
AC Converter wires
Trace
the Converter wire to breaker #3 right
Converter black and white (neutral) wires removed |
Remove
the converter black wire from the breaker
Trace
the Converter wire to neutral bar
Remove
the converter white wire from the neutral bar
Pigtailed
to outlet circuit, remove
Old Converter removed |
Apply
labels to the black wires to the other circuits
Remove
old converter from the base
Unscrew
the 4 nuts from the side flanges
Slide
the converter out from the housing
Discard
old converter
Drill new access hole into fuse box for bigger wire
Screw in hole grommet to protect the wire
New access hole in DC side |
Install
new Ultra III converter Model WF-9855
Place
the new Ultra III unit in front of housing
Pull 3
AC wires (white, black, green) thru the top left hole
Snip
wire tie to the converter housing & wrap metal edge with tape
Wire
tie the 3 AC wires near the plug to keep them tidy
Slide
the converter into the housing
Feed
the AC wires thru the left side housing holes
New converter AC wires fed thru hole DC wires left out |
Ensure
the hole guards are seated firmly
Screw
the 4 nut screws into the holes on the side of the new converter to
attach it to the housing
Pull
the 6AWG red and white DC wires thru the right side hole into the
fuse area
Wire
the AC side
Make
wire labels for the 3 AC wires & place labels on each wire
#3Converter
Hot Black wire
Converter
Neutral White Wire
Converter
Ground Green wire
New converter inserted |
Wire
nut the black outlet wire, converter wire & pigtail together
Route
black pigtail wire to Converter breaker & screw it into the
terminal firmly
Route
white wire to Neutral bar and screw it firmly
Route
Green wire to Ground bar and screw it firmly
Dress
the wires so they are neatly in the box
Wire
the DC Side
Note
all the connections are on the face of the new fuse board
Pigtail black wires, green to ground bar, white to neutral |
Apply
dielectric grease to each connection
Route
the RED Conv POS wire behind the card and over the top to the Conv
POS lug
Conv
POS is on the top middle of the fuse card
Screw
down firmly
Route
the WHITE Converter NEG wire to the leftmost Batt NEG lug
Batt
NEG are on the 2 lower right hand side of the card
Screw
down firmly
DC Converter wires pulled thru Access holes lined up perfectly |
Route
the new Black Battery NEG (ground) wire thru the access hole in the
rear of the housing
Remove
the old wire
Insert
into the right side of the Batt NEG lug on the bottom of the fuse
board
Screw
down firmly
Connect
the other end to the Van body ground screw
Ensure
the wire has a label
Fuse board wired: Batt POS & NEG, Conv POS & NEG |
Route
the new RED Battery POS wire thru the access hole in the rear of the
housing
Remove
& Discard the old wire
Route
the wire behind and over the top of the fuse block
Insert
into the right side of the Batt POS lug on the upper right of the
fuse board
Screw
down firmly
Connect
the other end to the Battery switch on the LOAD side
Ensure
the wire has a label
Rear of power housing with wires |
Wire each fuse wire to its appropriate fuse lug and screw down firmly
Ground
the chassis
Use
the old black battery NEG wire (8AWG)
Label
the wire Converter Chassis Ground
Insert
bare wire ends into the right side of the ground lug located at the
right bottom of the unit
Screw
down firmly
Route
the other end through the open cavity on the right side
Fuse wires attached |
Connect
the other end to the Van body ground screw
Finish
the installation
Insert
the appropriate fuse into each fuse holder on the fuse board
Reattach
the AC face panel
Switch
all AC breakers ON
Dress
the cables in the back of the unit to ensure they are out of the way
and not pinched
Slide
the converter/power housing unit into its place
Screw
the housing unit to its supports
Fuse board screwed to housing |
Screw
the hinged vented access plate into the housing face
Close
the upper lid and latch
Connect
the battery
Reattach
POS cables on DS battery
Reattach
NEG terminals on DS battery
Check
for voltage
Reset
the 50 amp breaker located below the fuse panel if necessary
Switch
12V on on main panel (above side door)
Installation finished |
Test
unit operation
Hi! I just got caught up on your blog. It's interesting that you built up your back bed, as I had a similar idea, and for the same reasons.
ReplyDeleteYour blog is full of neat mods, and I've thoroughly enjoyed reading it. Keep up the posts.
And thank you for your well-wishes!
I'm totally in awe of your ability tocomprehend this stuff!
ReplyDeleteFor some reason,your blog doesn't show up on my reading list :( I remember to check in, fairly frequently for updates, until I miss a couple days and then I forget :(
I have the same problem with a few blogs. I don't know if it's blogger, or me.
Cyndi & Stumpy @ RVly Ever After
I made a blog for my dog to see how the updating is. This blog updates properly on it so I don't know why it doesn't on other blogs. I tried doing all the things mentioned in the help files but it doesn't seem to make any difference. Wonder if you deleted it off your list, saved it, then added it again if it would work properly?
ReplyDeleteAs for comprehending it, I spend quite a bit of time studying internet writeups and recommendations before I jump. I look & trace what I have. I also ask questions about the things that I don't understand. You have to be careful about that because there is just as much good info out there as bad.
For these things that are complicated, I write all the steps as they apply to my exact thing so I don't get lost in the "make a decision and here's how" instructions given in the item's installation instructions. This also makes me go thru each step in my mind and I have to do a dry run before the install. So by the time I actually do the install, I know exactly what I am going to do and why.
And I got to this point because a pro shop just did a minimal patch to fix the problems which promptly broke again a few months later. I want to fix it once and for all and I don't want to pay someone to do a simple patch that won't fix the root cause.
It helps that I spent several years at my former job testing, then writing installation instructions for a complicated computer system. Got pretty good at figuring out how to write clear instructions and learned a lot along the way.
But then, I've spent a lot of time on these mods.