I Have a New Refrigerator!

Refrigerator installed with ASU Remote
above it

I finally finished installing my new Isotherm Cruise CR130 refrigerator and it works beautifully.  It is very quiet.  I have to put my ear right up to it to hear the fan/compressor at all.  My van is a huge mess with tons of tools and bits and pieces of insulation, but it is done.  The job was a big one primarily because I found a bunch of rust and rotted plywood that I fixed and replaced.  In addition, I wanted to add as much insulation to the cavity as space would allow to improve the refrigerator's performance.

Spacers on the Reflectic

Reflectic on back of refrigerator

Insulation in cavity

I used Reflectic foil bubble insulation that is quite effective if you put a little air space under it.  It is only about a quarter inch thick.  I cut little squares of it and used aluminum tape to adhere them to the Reflectic in a loose grid to make the air space.  I put this on the back of the cavity in two layers directly on the van metal skin, one layer on the top of the refrigerator, and on the back.  On the back of the refrigerator, I put 2 layers except where the van rib juts into the cavity.  I only put one layer there to ensure adequate air flow between the lower and upper vents for the compressor.  I also put a single layer of Reflectic on the base of the cavity where the refrigerator feet give a little air space.

On the side walls, I put 1" R-5 foam board and on the top, I put in 3 of the boards for a total of 3" plus the Reflectic.  The gap was covered by two stained boards to finish the look.  One was recessed to hold the ASU Remote for controlling the refrigerator and a indoor/outdoor thermometer for monitoring the refrigerator.  The remaining area is covered by a stained maple board flush with the rest of the trim.

I put cable ties on the two electrical cords and taped them to the back of the refrigerator before putting on the insulation so they will be secured and safe.  I used 2 1/2" L brackets on the top to secure it to the cavity wall and 1 1/2" brass L brackets on the bottom to secure it to the base.  I had to drill thru the metal refrigerator skin but that worked ok without too much trouble.  Connecting the refrigerator was as simple as connecting the red positive wires and the black negative wires, plug the ASU jack into the ASU Remote Board, secure it to its holder, plug in the fuse, and turn the switch on.

Now for the clean up and putting the cabinet doors back on.

L Bracket on the bottom to secure fridge

L bracket on the top - 1 hole drilled. Black electrical tape
to hide and dress up the bracket edge

L Bracket screwed into wall

Insulation inserted into top cavity.  ASU operating