On the inside metal, I'm using Rustoleum Gloss White metal paint over the brown primer. I just brushed it on and it will need at least a second coat but it takes 24 hours to dry so the next coat will have to wait until tomorrow.
First thing this morning, I painted the underside of the new floor with semi-gloss latex paint. That dries quickly. Again, not really needed but it is a better protectant than just the primer and will be easier to clean from time to time. I have some left over from my house painting project and it's not in the best shape so I might as well use it up on this. Then the same thing on the cavity walls. By the time I finished those, the floor was dry so I flipped it and painted the top side with 2 coats. Then another coat on the walls.
Using the old floor again as a template, I drilled the pilot holes for the screws, then put in counter-sinks for the new stainless steel screws. That way, the surface will be smooth.
|Cavity floor with countersunk pilot holes|
I'm not putting in new caulk in the metal seams. The intact vents with proper sealing should keep water out and sometimes it is better to allow any potential moisture to drain and dry rather than goop it to let it seep under and not be able to dry out - as had happened.
Since it takes so long for the metal paint to dry, the walls and floor should be completely cured by the time I install it. No paint to paint stickiness.